Friday, 27 June 2014

Ardeche Again

Second update from the Ardeche - one more to follow. A pleasantly cool 13C and clear blue skies at 0700 - 30C due this afternoon - as I bash away at the computer - seems like work again! 

13th June - Castelnau-Durban
73 miles from Peyraguades les Agudes

Early morning decision made to go east through the Pyrenees, back towards the Pais Cathar, rather than west. towards the Pais Basque. Moving along the Pyrenees is slow as it means crossing the numerous small deep valleys that drain north into France. Spent all morning chugging up and down innumerable cols and passes with densely wooded hills, well worth stopping for a few days another time. No decent photographs as there was a lot of low stormy cloud on the hills.

Planned stop was at the Aire, in the town centre, at St Girons: arrived at lunchtime to find caravans and large white vans permanently camped there. Decided to move on up the road 20km to the next Aire at Castelnau-Durban. A well shaded aire, provided by rows of plane trees, in the centre of the village. Wandered of 'a pied' in the late afternoon to look at the ruined castle and along a disused railway line (now a cycle way).


Pyrenean Foothills across the Vallee de Luchon
The High Pyrenees lost in the stormy clouds all day
Castelnau-Durban
Shady Aire in the centre of the village
 Doesn't show noisy road works and busy traffic on the adjacent D117 to Foix
14th June - Mirepoix
40 miles from Castelnau-Durban

A short drive eastwards and into the Pais Cathar again  via Foix and shopping at Decathalon to the medieval town on Mirepoix with its impressive square of timber framed houses and cathedral, sadly some what over commercialized. The aire was adjacent to a farm and park on the edge of town. Fifty kilometre circuit on the bike around the hills and a large lake, Lac de Montbel, in the afternoon to the south of then town - encountered two guys from Leicester who now run a family bike hire business here!

Foix - Chateau above the town and river
Cathar country again - the round tower dates from that period
The majority of it is is later when it was a royal castle on the Spanish border
Mirepoix
Cathedral - with external stair turret
Seen a few times in France
I don't recall seeing the same in the UK
Mirepoix - Main Square
Reminiscent of Chester - but with more pastels
Mirepoix- Main Square
Carved gargoyles
Mirepoix -Town Gate
About all that remains of the town from the Cathar period

15th June - Montferrier
28 miles from Mirepoix

Southwards into the foothills, with a diversion to the impressive Cathar castle - Chateau Roquefixade. Stopped at Montferrier, now a quite holiday village - formerly numerous iron works and a talc manufactory in the valley. The aire was adjacent to a long distant footpath and I used this to visit Chateau Montsegur, yet another Cathar site, above the next village in the morning.

Chateau Roquefixade and Roquefiaxade below
Chateau Montsegur from near Roquefixade
Many of the Cathar Castles are in line of sight
Montferrier
The aire is off to the left
Chateau Montsegur
From the footpath from Montferrier
Chateau Montsegur
Outlook to the north-west from the ramparts
Chateau Montsegur
From the ramparts south
Down to the village and into
the high Pyrenees
16th June - Quillan
52 miles from Montferrier

Drove to Quillan in that late afternoon to stop at an Aire in the town centre adjacent to the station. Bargain railway fares advertised, an unbelievable one euro to Carcassone, about 60km away on the train; but, missed out as the railway is shut for 'travaux' the whole of June.
Passed the Cathar sites at Puivert on the way.

Chateau Puivert
'Greenhill Castle' doesn't sound quite so romantic
Quillan - Hills from the edge of town
Quillan - Chateau Quillan
An unimposing block house of a place
Beer was good though
  

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