Sunday, 2 September 2018

Summer 2018 - Second Post - France

9th July 2018
Locmaria Plouzane

After a few days at the beach, although a couple were ruined by sea fog that didn't clear until the late afternoon, back here for a night with a pleasant walk down to the coast and along to the castle at  Plougonvelin mainly on green lanes followed by a bit of biking in the evening.
Plougonvelin - Coastal Defences
Porsmilin - Coastal walk

10th July 2018
Bourg Blanc

Returned to Bourg Blanc to replenish water, do a cycle route and to pick-up the fourth leg of the Tour de France which passed through the village the next day. Loads of commercial stuff initially, quite bizarre, and then the cyclists were past within a few minutes! Loads of people lining the route and a fete with free snacks in the village.
Bourg Blanc - Tour de France - Two of the hundred or so preliminary 'commercial tour' vehicles

Bourg Blanc - Tour de France - Leaders

Bourg Blanc - Tour de France - Peleton


11th to 15th July 2018
Plouescat

Sunny days continue, so moved to a small aire on the north coast for a few days of beach, also some walking and cycling along the coast. Very rowdy on the afternoon and evening when France won the World Cup in Russia followed by a large market and fireworks the next day - 14th July Bastille Day. Spent ages one late afternoon trying to photograph Sand Matins flying in and out of their burrows in the shallow cliff. I found a free local bus service that linked the local villages, beaches and the main town. There was another free bus/coach that picked people up at the Tourist Office and took them to the large aquarium in Brest, Oceanoplois, which was nearly fifty miles away if you just bought your entrance tickets in advance. The French look after their tourists!
Plouscat - Coastal Walk to the east
Plouscat - Bizarre Granite Tors
16th July 2018
Roscoff

Busy aire on the coast a few kilometres west of Roscoff. The old town was in easy walking distance as was a great beach in the other direction. Local vendors turned up with fresh eggs and melons. Both very tasty! As in Plouscat there was a free summer bus service linking the town and beaches.

Roscoff - Town Centre

Roscoff - Old Town and Ile de Batz

17th July 2018
Penze

Short drive to the tidal head of la Penze in its deep wooded valley, similar to the flooded river valleys in south Devon. A great little parking area adjacent to the river with a couple of vans.

Penze - River next to the Aire at high tide

18th July 2018
Caranac

Back to the north coast where the estuaries of two rivers la Penze and le Tromorgant (which flows in a deep valley south through Morlaix) converge in an area of shallow wooded cliffs, broad rock studded beaches and off shore islands. Great walk along the coast, out to the Ile Callot, along a tidal causeway, and then back through the town. The aire was just a simple car park next to the Sports Centre in a residential area - nothing special but did the job. And another free local bus service!

Caranac - Coastal walk - Chateau du Taureau

Caranac - Coastal Walk - one of the small bays

19th and 20th July 2018
Port Diben

Followed the le Tromogrant valley down to Morlaix to replenish water and dump waste at the town aire there, which was packed out at lunchtime. Then headed up to the coast at the eastern side of the estuary at the aire adjacent to the sea at Port Diben where you can park up on the quayside. More coastal walking! Looking back at Caranac from the opposite side of the estuary. But the last few days have been getting very hot in the afternoon.

Port Diben - View from the windscreen when parked up at the Aire

21st July 2018
Lampaul-Guimilau

A cultural day. Initially, on a grey damp morning, a visit to the Cairn de Barnenez, reportedly the largest  megalithic mausoleum in Europe. Later in bright sunshine, a couple of stops pottering around a few the parish closes, for which Brittany is famous. Usually comprising a trilogy of ornate triumphal arch, calvary and ossuary. These are normally within a walled enclosure with the parish church. The church is often highly decorated with sculptures, paintings, mouldings and pinnacles. They mainly date from the seventeenth and eighteenth century when the area became wealthy from the growth of flax and the manufacture of linen and the wealthy poured money into the church fabric. For some reason, perhaps the introduction of cottons from the far east and production of cotton textiles in NW Europe it had declined by the turn of the nineteenth century. Stopped off at the closes Guimilau and Lampaul-Guimilau, stopped at the aire at the latter village. The one in Guimilau was closed for a boules tournament.

Cairn de Barnenez

Guimilau - The Calvary - amazing detail in sculpted granite

Guimilau - The Parish Close

22nd and 23rd July 2018
le Folgoet

Headed west back towards Brest to catch up with friends from Lancashire, Graham and Viki, who had been touring further south in their motorhome and where passing through Brittany on there way back to the UK at the beginning of August. We met at a large aire close to the Basilica Church at le Flogoet, which had an amazingly ornate and detailed carved stone Rood Screen. This important item of medieval church furniture, separating the navel from the chancel, was ripped out of the English churches at the Reformation and only a few nineteenth century replacements exist at home. Enjoyed Grahams outdoor cooking on his wood fired stove, incredibly economic on fuel!


le Folgoet - Basilica Notre Dame du Folgoet - Rood Screen
24th July 2018
Bourg Blanc
Decided to hang out with G & V for a few days and we headed back towards the west coast. Initially stopping off at Bourg Blanc, wet weather but did get out on the bike around the lake. Wanted to go to the Circus; but, stormy weather resulting them taking the tent down and it was cancelled.

25th to 27th July 2018
Penze

Back here for a few days with G&V where Graham put his his fishing skills to work and speared a couple of mullet. Never eaten mullet before! It was really succulent. Just pottering around and a few short walks.

28th July to 6th August 2018
Lampaul-Plourzel

Then back to the seaside for a week before they headed towards the Channel and home. Generally good sunny weather, I headed for the beach most afternoons and did a couple of short coastal walks with Viki, unfortunately Graham was indisposed having badly twisted his knee a few weeks earlier.

7th August 2018
St Theogonnec

Off on my own again and another cultural stop at St Theogonnec with its pleasant aire and nearby parish close. Followed one of the local walks and then cycled around it la
ter in the day - actually looking for the twenty euros that I had lost in the morning!
St Theogonnec


8th August 2018
Glomel

Had made the decision to head towards Geneva, some 900km from Brittany, to follow the Route des Grandes Alpes from Lake Geneva to Menton (on the Mediterranean just east of Nice). So began heading into eastern Brittany in that direction sort of planning to Lake Geneva in a couple of weeks. First stop was at Glomel, on a aire next to the campsite and adjacent lake, the Etang de Coronc, the wooded shores provided a shady 6km walk in the late afternoon.

Glomel - Canal de Nantes Brest

9th August 2018
Beignon

Still in Brittany eastwards to the west of Rennes to stop at Beignon where the aire was a shady green parking area behind the village cemetery. A short walk into the village centre of mainly stone built houses with a couple of restaurants and a boulangerie. Nothing special but a pleasant stop over location.
Beignon


10th and 11th August 2018
Bouere

Last stop in Brittany at a fantastic wooded and shaded municipal campsite that had been turned into an aire for motorhomes at the edge of the village with bar-tabac, boulangerie and recreational lake within spitting distance...and no charge! Followed a walking trail called Route du Feurs du Chaux, confused as to what this meant all was revealled (route of the lime ovens) when I encountered a couple of huge masonry limestone kilns and a helpful information board!

Bouere - Feur du Chaux (Limekiln)
Bouere - Aire des Campingcars


12th and 13th August 2018
Gizeux

Out of Brittany into the Pays de Loire Region to stop at Gizeux, in the old duchy of Anjou, a few kilometres west of Tours. Yet another free and beautifully landscaped aire which was a few minutes walk from the local chateau and park. Cycling around I seemed to find loads of feral flax (the type grown for linen not flax seed and oil) and flowers smothered with dozens of butterflies..possibly peacocks but I am no expert on butterflies.

Gizeau - le Chateau

Gizeau - Butterflies (Peacock?)


14th and 15th August 2018
Villefranche-sur-Cher

Through Tours to follow the wide Cher valley for most of the day to end up in an aire adjacent to the Canal du Berry on the south side of Villefranche-sur-Cher. During a couple of cycle trips encountered the historic village of Mennetou-sur-Cher also on the Canal du Berry.
Villefranche-sur-Cher


16th August 2018
Apremonts-sur-Allier

The last week has been extremely hot in the afternoons, had to hang out in the shade at the parking area at Apremonts before heading for a stroll round the village in the evening. Had the feeling of 'chocolate box' tourist village...virtually dead in the evening when the crowds had dispersed!

Apremonts-sur-Allier


17th and 18th August 2018
Julienas

Further east into Burgundy to stop for a couple of nights surrounded by wooded hills and acres of Pinot Noir grapes on the outskirts of Julienas, just to the south of Macon. Some long hilly walks, thankfully with some shade in the wooded sections, over the two days I was here. There seemed to be an absence of butterflies...maybe too much insecticide on the endless vineyards?

Julienas

19th August 2018
Thoirette

East again across the Saone at Macon into the eastern Jura, with typical steep limestone escarpments, deep valleys and lakes to end up at a noisy roadside aire at Thoirette. It was a weekend and every man and his dog seemed to be out racing cars and motorbikes well into the evening. So unusual for rural France where most roads are rarely trafficked after eight or nine in the evening. Compensated by great scenery though!

Thiorette - Gorge de l'Ain from the town bridge

20th to 23rd August 2018
Reposoir

At last Lake Geneva! Eventually after the boring drag around Annemasse ended up at the lakeside near Thonon-les-Bains, but the wee aire was full and the area was heaving with visitors. So started of on the route to the Mediterranean straight way, hopefully there will be less traffic and noise further south. Everyman and his dog (wife, three kids and grand parents) seemed to be trying to complete an afternoon circuit from Thonon and Evian to Cluses as fast as possible. Luckily, this was to prove to be correct!

Peace and quiet a few kilometres south of Cluses in the 'Alpine' village of Reposoir, in Haute Savoie, with a large free parking area and a service point. Strange to realise that this area down to Nice, formerly the Duchy of Savoy, only became part of France in 1860. Great walks around through wooded hillsides and open alps with occasional an glimpse of the chain of glacier topped peaks that form the Franco-Swiss border to the south of Lake Geneva one day.

Reposoir - Chartreuse de Reposoir
Hidden in a side valley
Repsoir - Towards the Col de St Ann


24th August 2018
Albertville

Started picking up some of the cols made famous by the Tour de France. First the Col de Colombier (1613m) then through St Jean-les-Sixt (where the aire was closed due to a huge fete the next day) and over the Col des Aravis (1418m) to end up in the aire, above the relatively modern town of Albertville, adjacent to the Medieval town of Conflans.

Albertville - from the walls of Conflans
25th to 28th August 2018
Beaufort

Crossing the Col des Saisies (1633m) with clear views of the western end of the Mont Blanc Massif on the way down dropped down into the Doron valley to spend a few days parked up at Beaufort. One of the centres of cheese production in Savoy. Oddly, there were small notices requesting payment of the taxe de sejour (tourist tax) by people using the aire - so eventually filled in the provided form, put that in the provided envelope and deposited same with the cash in the letter box at the Tourist Office....then some one needs to empty the envelopes, count the cash, ledger it and bank the money all for the sake of 22 cents per adult a day! At Least I managed to get rid of a lot of one cent and two cent coins! Chilly mornings and hot afternoons ... so mainly walking in the late afternoon and early evening. Beginning to notice the daylight hours getting shorter.
Beaufort 
Col de Saisies - View to the western end of The Mont Blanc Massif


29th August 2018
Col du Petit St Bernard

From Beaufort up and across the pass the Lac de Roseland and over the Cormet de Roseland (1967m). Had planned to stop overnight at les Capieux....but there were signs up banning over night stops due to flooding risk. Great views up towards the Mont Blanc Massif. Being cautious, decided to move on and parked up in initially in Bourg St Maurice; but, very hot in the late afternoon there, so drove on up to the Col du St Benard (2188m) and took a short stroll into Italy!
Lac de Roseland and pass up to the Cormet de Roseland (1967m)

Les Chapieux
Col du Petit St Bernard - Roman Mansio at the Col and Mont Blanc Massif disappearing into clouds

30th August 2018
Val d'Isere

Wet, chilly and grey start to the day at the Col. Headed back down to Bourg St Maurice to pick up the route and headed uphill past Mont Pourri (with its mountain glaciers) and past the Lac du Chevil to a large parking area to the east of Val d'Isere at around 2000m. Walked in the late afternoon up to a refuge; but, the weather began to take a turn for the worse. Wet, cold and cloudy for the next three days...so having the time to avoid pointless bad weather in the mountains decided to head down to Albertville the next day to chill out some where warmer and drier in a cheap campsite until Monday. when the weather should improve.
Walking from the Aire at Val d'Isere - Franco-Italian border on the ridge line at the horizon
Lunch stop at Mont Pourri and Lac du Chevril - glaciers are better seen from the far side of the barrage but too cloudy to see them when I passed.



Monday, 9 July 2018

Summer 2018 - First Post France

A late start with the van this summer, as I spent most of May doing a 4500 mile road trip around the north-western USA. Finally, got away from Edinburgh on the 12th June spent a few nights with my sister in Tankerton, Kent and then crossed over to Calais at lunchtime on the 14th June. Initially the intention is to head towards Brittany for a few weeks.
A few images from the States:










14th June 2018 - Montreuil

Becoming a regular stop off travelling to and from Calais. Finally, they have completed the repaving of the main square, it has a history like York Place in Edinburgh, endless roadworks over the past four years that I have stopped! Quick circuit of the ramparts in the evening.

15th June 2018 - Cleres

Travelled on to about thirty miles east of Rouen, to stop off at a pleasant aire at Cleres that I discovered last Autumn. Arrived about lunchtime, wanted to follow a signed walking trail about 13km long in the afternoon. As I always seem to manage to get lost I went to the TO and asked for a map. No problem, except I didn't have any change (35c) to pay for it. The nice lady told me not to bother about paying and sent me on my way with the map. Can't imagine anyone being so helpful in the UK.

16th June 2018 - le Sap

Passed easily through Rouen and parked up at the aire, adjacent to a small lake, in the slightly dilapidated town of le Sap. The sign that described it as 'un petite citie de charactere de France', seemed somewhat optimistic. Although, the cider museum and specimen apple orchard held some interest on the other side of the town.
Museum and Church - le Sap


17th June 2018 - St Leonard-des-Bois

A few kilometres further west into a hilly area with deep wooded valleys called la Suisee Normande, hardly the Alps but some pleasant stone villages as the geology changes from the limestone plateaux of the Paris Basin into the older igneous and metamorphic rocks of Brittany. Roadside aire, very quiet after 9pm, next to a very swollen river on the edge of the village. Evening stroll over the hills behind the village on a warm summers evening.

St Leonard-des-Bois - Evening stroll
 Screes on the far slope were formed during the last glaciation

18th June 2018 - Val d'Ize

Further west into Brittany through Mayenne and onto a small village aire at Val d'Ize. A cloudy and damp morning became a blistering hot afternoon when i followed a 16km trail through country lanes, green lanes and footpaths. An english guy, retired copper from Croydon, called in the next morning. He had lived there for five years and just got French citizenship.
Val d'Ize - I don't recall school deinners being like this!

19th June 2108 - Lizio

Initially headed for the town of Josselin on the Nantes-Brest canal with its impressive chateau and old town centre. The parking area was huge, but very busy packed with mainly French vans. Very hot in the town so I headed off to a nearby village aire, next to another pond, at Lizio. One of those unexpected gems - with historic small church and stone houses in the centre. Only one other van turned up.

Josselin - Chateau and Nantes-Brest Canal

Lizio - Village Street

20th to 23rd June 2018 - Plage de Kaolin, l'Amour Plage

Looks like some warm sunny weather for the next few days so headed to the coast to a free parking area a few kilometres west of l'Orient for a few days. Only issue was that the nearest boulangerie was 8km away, but green cycle track all the way. Followed a couple of trails as well as not doing much on the beach.

Kerroc'h and Ile de Groix on the horizon


24th to 25th June 2018 - Audierne

Avoiding the more popular spots on the south coast of Brittany drove across to the resort and harbour of Audierne to stop at a river side aire on the edge of the town for a couple of nights. Interesting riverside walk to the nearby village of Point la Croix at the head of the estuary. Met up with an interesting guy from Devon, enyed moules frites together one evening, among other things had been chairman of Devon CC for thirteen years.

Audierne - Harbour and town

Pointe de Croix - from along the riverside walk

26th to 28th June 2018 - Pointe de Van

Now at the western end of Finisterre, on the southernmost peninsula, parking up in the free parking area for motorhomes at the Pointe de Van. Oddly you have to pay 6.50 euro a night at the adjacent Pointe de Raz. Good cliff top walks, lots of windmills and a nearby sandy beach to pass the time even a pleasant wee cafe for at the car park to people watch from.
Pointe de Van - Coastal walk to the north

29th June 2018 - Gelden-Cap-Sizum

Spent the night at the large aire in the nearby village aire at Gelden-Cap-Sisun stopping at the services in Plogoff on the way.
A restored windmill


30th June to 1st July 2018 - Plonevez-Porsay

After a very hot day on the beach and walking along the cliffs towards Douarnenez, based on at a great little parking spot, adjacent to the river and beach on the coast at Trefeuntec Plage, went to the nearby aire at Plonevez-Porsay to use the facilities late in the evening and spent a very lazy Sunday there - lively and busy market in the village in the morning.

Trefeuntec - More cliff top walking

Ponevez-Porsay - pinnacled church tower typical of this part of Brittany
Trefeuntec - Smashing parking in a landscaped area adjacent to the beach

2nd July 2018 - la Fret

Drove around to the Crozon Peninsula on the south side of the Rade de Brest, after an afternoon wandering around a very misty Cap de la Chevre headed to the aire at la Fret, adjacent to the nuclear submarine base at Isle de Longue, for the night and an evening's stroll. Surprised to be faced by a guy with a huge submachine gun getting out of the back of a transit van; but only a casual 'bon soir' required. presumably part of the 'security'.
La Fret - Harbour

3rd July 2018 - Locmaria Plouzanc

Around to the main Finisterre peninsula to a small landscaped aire at the village of Locmaria-Plouzac. A short cycle ride down to the beach at Tregana and a potter around the fields and hedgerows along a blazoned trail in the evening.
Locmaria Plouzanc - Another church with decorated tower


4th July 2018 - Bourg Blanc

Had intended to park up at the aire in the small harbour town of le Conquet, but complicated daytime parking rules fro motorhomes made this difficult so headed inland to the large landscaped aire at Bourg Blanc on the edge of the village adjacent to large lakes that were formed following the hydraulic mining of placer deposits of tin in the 1970's.
Bourg Blanc - Restored Tin Workings adjacent to the Aire

5th to 8th July 2018 - Pointe de Corsen

A few nights parked up at the coastal aire and campsite at Ruscumunoc, cliffs and sandy coves with the nearby Pointe de Corsen being the westernmost point in continental France - a bit like Lands End, except the car park is free! Two very misty cloudy days followed by sunny ones.
Pointe de Corsen - north


Sunday, 15 April 2018

Winter 2018 - Third Post - Spain and Home

4th February - 11th March 2018
Conil de la Frontera, Cadiz Province, Spain
2436 miles

A long 35 nights stay at a spotless campsite about three miles south of the coastal town of Conil de la Frontera on the Costa de la Luz, the Atlantic coast of Spain north of Gibraltar. I had intended moving to Portugal. However, the weather there was generally cooler and wetter due to the infamous and recurrent 'Beast from the East' in central Europe and the UK driving all the Atlantic storms south into Portugal, northern Spain and France. I thought I was going to pay 15 euro a night and was delighted to be charged only ten a night when I went to pay on leaving. Included unmetered electric hook-up which was great and it was often chilly and damp and the electric fan heater was often on all day.

Low lying near the coast with Pine Forest and sandy soils (reminiscent of the New Forest in the UK, except the pine trees are very different) and low, brown, red and orange cliffs (similar to the Algarve).  Numerous coastal lagoons, especially between Conil and Cape Trafalgar (of the battle fame) absolutely teeming with bird life and wild flowers. The area is an important migration route for birds between Europe and North Africa across the Strait of Gibraltar.

Some long term UK winter residents from three to six months in caravans and mobile homes and shorter stay itinerants. Got to know a few quite well and ended up playing endless boules games, when dry enough, weekend meals together and so forth. There were a great couple from Northern Ireland nearby into cycling and horses - so had some sociable bike runs, car trips and visits to the International Show jumping near Verger de la Frontera with them.

At times damn wet, grey and rainy; but I don't think the daytime temperatures feel below 13C. So overall better than home, even though stuck in van for two or three totally wet days.

Strand Cala del Aceite Conil
Playa del Aceite - Closest beach to the campsite
Conil van het strand
Conil de la Frontera - still very Spanish
Stone Pine Forest - between the campsite and the coast
12th March - 18th March 2018
San Jose, Almeria Province, Spain
2793 miles

Left Conil de la Frontera and headed around the coast via Gibraltar and Malaga to the east of Almeria to stop off at San Jose, again. Mainly because I like the place and it's free to park up in the centre of town. Weather was very windy. The picture at the top of the page, of the coast towards Las Negras, was taken about four years ago when I first stayed at San Jose in better weather!

19th March - 24th March 2018
El Campello, Alicante Province, Spain
2975 miles

After a few days in San Jose travelled along the coast to the campsite at El Campello a few miles north of Alicante to meet up with Pat and Bart, friends from Lancashire. They were staying in an apartment near the marina for six weeks. It was great to meet up again and enjoy Pat's home cooking. As I get ready to head back to the UK the weather in Spain has taken a turn for the better over the last week, although at times there were very strong winds.

Pat and Bart - Promenade in El Campello

25th March 2018
Teruel, Spain
3184 miles

Left after a late Sunday lunch with Pat and Bart, the clocks changing caused some confusion about the local time, headed towards home. Initially around Valencia and up into the hills to spend the night at a parking area for motorhomes in pleasant new suburbs to the south of the town next to the Guardia Civil (so presumably a safe place to park up). Walking into the old town near the castle and aqueduct realised that it was Palm Sunday as the local parish faithful struggled along the streets with various statues Mary Magdalene and Christ on the Cross readying for Semana Santa. In the old part of the town numerous gateways and churches constructed from decorative brick, unfortunately too wet and dark to take decent photographs. A cold night parked at just over 1000m!

Postcards (thanks to Google) of some of the impressive brick buildings in Teruel

26th March 2018
Olite, Spain
3388 miles

A circuitous route circling way to the south west of Zaragoza avoiding the Autovia and passing through old towns and tumbling down villages to park up just outside the impressive Royal Palace and adjacent Monastery (now serving a Parador). Many brave Spanish tourists, presumably because of the Easter holiday, coping with the cold and winds; but, at least, most of the day was sunny and dry!
Royal Palace of Olite / Castle of Olite
Palacio Real, Olite
27th March 2018
Villeneuve-de-Marson, France
3583 miles

Long cloudy trek around the northern Pyrenees and then through Hendaye, Bayonne and the coast sprawl on the coast, about two hours of very slow and often congested urban driving, I really must take the plunge and pay the motorway toll next time! Need to get trouser pockets altered and made shallower.


28th March 2018
Queyssac, France
3694 miles

Through the Landes and into the Dordogne to stop off overnight at a gorgeous wee aire in an extremely small village, just outside Bergerac, that I used for a few days last August as per the snap below.
Related image
Queyssac - Restaurant just across from the Aire
29th March 2018
Marcilly-la-Villette, France
3938 miles

Relatively fast run up to the A20 near Limoges then up towards the Loire at Orleans, stopping, about 20 km south, at a pleasant village aire with park and woodland that l used last year. Actually managed a walk in some sunshine.

30th March 2018
Cleres, France
4113 miles

After clouds, sun and rain through Orleans, Chartres and around the east side of Rouen found that the aire that I intended to overnight at in Buchy was full of the fairground people for the street fair in the town. Actually not a bad thing, as I found another, more pleasant aire to park up in the small village of Cleres, some twelve kilometres away.

Cleres - Village centre and timber framed market hall

31st March 2018
Montreuil, France
4197 miles

Short drive up to the aire in the walled town of Montreuil, BEF's HQ for most of WW1. The aire has been expanded with some individual, flat parking spaces since I last stopped off here a few years ago; but, they seem to be continuously re-building the town square. Can't recall when there weren't works there over the past five years!

Montreuil-sur-Mer - Part of the defensive walls

1st April to 4t April 2018
Tankerton, Kent  and Edinburgh
Trip total 47019 miles

A few days with my sister in Kent before heading back to Edinburgh. After a 0530 start the first three hundred miles not too bad for traffic and weather, then north of Alnwick: heavy rain; flooded roads; started to snow before Berwick; by Eyemouth close to a blizzard sweeping in off the North Sea; bloody cold in Tranent. Welcome back to Scotland! Fortunately the car started first time when I swapped it for the van at the farm in Tranent- so arrived home safely.










Sunday, 4 February 2018

Winter 2018 - Second Post - Spain

26th January to 31st January 2018
San Jose, Almeria Province, Spain
1966 miles from Edinburgh

Great drive from Alicante to near Almeria via Murcia through mountains and forests and wastes! Fantastic untolled dual carriageway roads in this part of  Spain, called Autovias (the tolled roads are generally referred to as Altopistas). But very chilly when the road reached around 1400m near the Sierra Nevada, which were snow covered somewhere between 1500m and 2000m. Was thinking of staying in the hills; but, will wait for warmer weather!

San Jose is an old fashioned low rise resort in a corner of the Cabo de Gata National Park. With a convenient parking area for vans in the centre of town. No facilities; but, supermarket, panadarias and some small bars and restaurants were nearby. The park incorporates a barren and dry mixture of volcanic rocks, weathered volcanoes and calderas together with marine sediments in a semi-desert  environment (supposed to only rain for a week a year) - with a very foreign looking flora of cacti and other succulents. Quite a few plants were in flower some places. Locally bauxite and gold mining was important in the past.

Weather certainly cooler than a couple of weeks back and a couple of cloudy days and a little rain. Went of some where most days including a couple of good walks along the coast. The picture on the blog header is from an earlier visit, in 2014, and is from the coastal walk south of Las Negras about 15km up the coast from San Jose.

Coastal Path north of San Jose
Unexpected heard of sheep accompanied by a shepherd came over the next hill 

San Miguel - South of San Jose
Deserted promenade in strong cold winds apart from a few die-hard Spaniards at a bar
Cabo de Gata - Walking south of San Jose
Not many beaches in Spain look like this now!

Cabo de Gata - Alien plants bordering the footpath
Cabo de Gata - Restored Windmill
No sign of Don Quixote on his mule


1st February 2018
Antequera, Malaga Province, Spain
2229 miles from Edinburgh

Along the coast including the recently fully completed section of the A7 between Almeria and Motril and then near Malaga headed up through the hills to drop down again on to a vast arable plain to stop at the ancient town of Antequera, where the local council have kindly provided a free parking area and service facilities for motorhomes or autocarvanas in Spanish. It's a pity that there are such limited facilities, including campsites, for touring in Spain. The place is heaving with the grey haired mob this time of the year, escaping the grim weather of northern Europe and everywhere is full!

A gem of a town, and not on the main tourist trek - although there did seem to be a lot of Spanish people taking a winter break - dating from the Arab occupation with traces of Arabic (alcabaza and remains  of a mosque), Roman (baths and tombs), Visigoth and later Christian occupation (parts of the Alcabaza re-built and a Renaissance Collegiate Church). In the older part of the town the houses are brilliant white with about thirty churches scattered among them often built with very decorative brickwork. In the main street some beautiful wrought iron balconies - so typical of Spain.

Antequera - Sixteenth century Collegiate Church next to the Alcabaza

Antequera - View over the town from the Alcabaza

2nd to 4th February 2018
Jerez de la Frontera, Cadiz Province, Spain

Seemed to drive through thousands of hectares of olive groves from horizon to horizon in a wide open landscape with distant views of mountains locally rising above the general level of around 400m. More great dual carriageways and very little traffic. Away from the coast and the bigger towns driving in Spain is actually enjoyable with amazing views most of the time.

I had intended staying at a parking area in the docks in Seville; but, its a huge city with ring roads all over the place and more being built! Just looked too busy for me, pity as I have never been there before when I hit most of the main 'tourist cities' about twenty-five years ago by bike and train! So decided to head on a few more miles to the more gentile and probably more typically Andalusian town of Jerez, famous for its bordegas and their sherries. The only place to stay is in a caravan dealers yard; but the owners are very welcoming and of course provided the obligatory tipple upon checking-in.

Wonderful network of dedicated cycle paths throughout the town either adjacent to roads, down central reservations or share the footpaths. The cars even stop at uncontrolled crossing to give cyclists presidence. Certainly an improvement on the 800mm wide strip on the roads in Edinburgh that cyclists use at their peril!

Spent some time visiting the Alcazar (some arabic walls remain which were built form lime-mud-rubble compacted between wooden formwork, arabic baths, a mosque (later converted to a christian church) and the seventeenth century palace built within the alcaba) the adjacent cathedral. A few tourists around but mainly Spanish and a complete lack of tourist tack that the Royal Mile in Edinburgh has degenerated into.

Jerez de la Frontera - Cathedral, orange trees and flying buttresses
Jerez de la Frontera - Plaza Arenal
Well wrapped up locals enjoying a drink

Jerez de la Frontera - Garden in the Alcazar

Jerez de la Frontera - Seventeenth Century Palace within the Alcazar