Thursday, 18 August 2016

Summer 2016 - Fifth Post - Czech Republic, Slovakia and Hungary

8th to 9th August 2016
Velehrad (South Moravia, Czech Republic)
Sector 72 miles
Total 51367 miles

Relatively short drive along reasonable roads past the site of the Battle of Austerlitz (1805), where Napoleon comprehensively defeated the combined Austrian and Russian armies. To a very basic campsite (reminiscent of a Communist Workers Camp - seemed little changed since around 1970!) in wooded valleys with numerous signed cycle paths. Tried those one afternoon and the next day did a 20km hike to the Hrad Buchlov (Buchlov Castle). The town has an important baroque basicala that was visited by the pope during the fall of communism in eastern europe in 1990.

Battle of Austerlitz Memorial
Zamek Buchovice
Velehrad - Basilica of St. Cyrillus and Methodius
Velehrad - Basilica of St. Cyrillus and Methodius

Velehrad - Hrad Buchlov

10th August 2016
Cerovo (Slovakia)
Sector 165 miles
Total 51632 miles

Twenty four hours of wet weather started at 4pm on the 9th - so decided to head on into Slovakia - much less developed than the Czech Republic. By-passed Bratislava, which I had visited about ten years ago and ended up at a Dutch owned campsite in the hills just outside Cerovo.  There was a help yourself vegetable plot! The weather remained cold and decided to head south to try and find warmer weather in Hungary the next day.

Cerovo - Farm and Campsite
11th to 13th August 2016
Budapest (Hungary)
Sector 106 miles
Total 6099 miles

Crossed into Hungary and followed a motorway (started off as a two lane single carriageway!) into Budapest and stopped at a campsite about 9km from the centre on the Pest side of the Danube. Amazing dense and integrated public transport system of trams, metro, trolley buses and trains! One stop on the train then the metro into the centre in about twenty minutes. There were two british couples at the campsite (which was totally packed) for the first time at the campsite since Belgium! A couple of days doing touristy stuff around Budapest. The hills are on the Buda side and the Hungarian Plain that stretches for hundreds of kilometres is on the Pest side of the Danube. It's hard to believe that most of the city was flattened in 1945 when the German's, defending castle hill, were besieged by the Russian army for seven weeks. Part of the hill is still in ruins and some pre-war government buildings are still being rebuilt.

Budapest - Buda - Castle Hill
St Matthias Church (left) and Fisherman's Bastion fronting it, St Anne's Church (right)
Bus hills in the distance.
Budapest - Remains of the Roman town of Aquincum in the northern outskirts of Buda
Budapest - Parliament Building in Pest (holds the St Stephen's Crown)
Budapest - Buda from the Palace - The Chain Bridge and Basilica of St Stephen (they have his right hand!)
Budapest - Paprika!
Budapest- Buda, Matthias Church
Budapest - Buda, Fisherman's Bastion
14th August 2016
Erdotasca (Hungary)
Sector 46 miles
Total 6145 miles

Escape from the city heat to yet another Dutch run campsite adjacent to the small village of Erdotasca. There were a number of wooden statues in the village - reflecting a total different history to western Europe of Magyar, Mongol and Turkish invasions and settlement from the east.
Erdotasca - One of many wooden statues
Erdotasca - Endless fields of sunflowers
15th to 17th August 2016
Eger (Hungary)
Sector 143 miles
Total 6288 miles

After a drive through the Bukka NP stopped off for a few days at the town of Eger (campers included Hungarians - popular for the local Bull's Blood wine - Poles, Dutch, French, Estonians, Czechs and German - as usual I was the sole UK representative!). Eger has a well preserved baroque centre together with a castle and archbishop's palace. The surrounding countryside is mainly vineyards.

Eger - Minaret
Remnant of the seventeenth century Ottoman occupation
Eger - Basilica and Minorite Church from the Castle
Eger - Castle

Eger - Basilica

18th August 2016
Tiszafured (Hungary)
Sector 61 miles
Total 6349 miles

Away from the hills and onto the Great Hungarian Plain (with too many mosquitoes this evening!). Stopped at a German run campsite in the holiday resort of Tiszafured with thermal spas and some large lakes. Cycled through hundreds of swallows feeding close to the ground when I cycled round part of the lake in the late afternoon.
Tiszafured



Sunday, 7 August 2016

Summer 2016 - Fourth Post - Bavaria and Czech Republic


27th July 2016
Arzberg, Bavaria, Germany

Spent two nights here and enjoyed a shaded forestry walk today. Lots of historic mining in the area and a couple of old mine adits encountered - for metalliferous ores - but not exactly sure what!
Arzberg - Mine Adit
Arzberg - Town Church

28th July to 30th August 2016
Frantiskovy Lazne, West Bohemia, Czech Republic
Sector 30 miles
Total 5477 miles

A short drive into the Czech Republic - picking up a motorway vignette at a service station near the border (about £13,50 for one month - bargain compared to the cost of French, Spanish and Italian motorway tolls). Unfortunately, perhaps fortunately for the Czechs, the Czech Republic has not adopted the euro so I had to get some Czech crowns from an ATM.
Gorgeous small spa town, the old part founded in 1794, full of late eighteenth century and nineteenth century hotels, villas and pavilions in shaded parks and gardens - nearly all covered in yellow and white render. Some dilapidated buildings still reflect the impact of forty-one years of communist rule.
I think Lazne is the czech equivalent of the german 'bad' or english 'spa'. No, or very few aires in Czech Republic, and not that many campsites either - or perhaps I lack a decent guide book. However, stopped at a clean. efficient site adjacent to a lake about two kilometres from the old town with a pleasant cycle track through forestry to the town parks.
Cycled out to a Nature Reserve about ten kilometres from Frantiskovy, called Soos, which has strange bubbling hot mud pools (mofettes or bog volcanoes), in marsh and birch forest, that emit CO2 and He originating from the earth's mantle. Proven, apparently. from the isotope of helium present. Saddening to see in a small zoo with large birds of prey, such as a beautiful buzzard and a gorgeous goshawk, kept in 3mx3mx4m cages.
On the second day I walked to the adjacent town of Cheb a few kilometres away. Impressive fortifications (oddly like many of the buildings mainly constructed of brick rather than masonry) and a large cathedral church- but mainly rebuilt in the nineteenth century. 
Frantiskovy Lazne - Symbol of the town
It brings good luck if you touch the very shiny item - not his toes!
Frantiskovy Lazne
Frantiskovy Lazne
Frantiskovy Lazne
Soos Nature Reserve
Soos Nature Reserve
Soos Nature Reserve - Little Owl (?)

Soos Nature Reserve - mofettes

Cheb - Town Square and Cathedral
Cheb - Fortifications and Castle
Soos Nature Reserve


31st July to 2nd August 2016
Marianske Lazne (Marianbad), West Bohemia, Czech Republic
Sector 25 miles
Total 5502 miles

Another short hop to the larger spa town of Marianske Lazne. which still has an amazing network of single deck trolley buses and no polluting diesel buses. A long linear often wooded park runs along along the bottom of the valley for about three kilometres into the centre of the town with forested hills on one side and the main road on the other. There are about forty springs which can mostly be sampled. As Frantiskovy Lazne a multitude of yellow and white colonnades. arcades. hotels and pavilions. Apparently. this was one of the favourite summer resorts of Edward VII among other late nineteenth century european notables. Both still very popular as spa resorts. 
A long forestry walk, from the campsite, one afternoon revealed a lot of deteriorating farm buildings and hamlets - showing that a lot of the countryside has not recovered from the communist era even after twenty years.
Marianske Lazne

Marianske Lazne

Marianske Lazne - Patton Memorial
The US army liberated western Czechoslovakia

The last day was grey, cool and very wet. The weather forecast for the next week was similar - so I decided to leave the mountains of West Bohemia and head for what looked warmer and sunnier climes in Southern Moravia in the south-east of the Czech Republic some 350km away.


3rd August to 7th August 2016
Jedovnice, South Moravia, Czech Republic
Sector 254 miles
Total 5756 miles

A long drive, mainly by motorway, around Prague to Brno in South Moravia and then pottering around for a few kilometres trying to find a suitable campsite. The first one I visited look like a black ski run - no chance of getting the van any where level or probably back out again with the recent rain and soft ground! The second one seemed to have vanished, at least at the GPS coordinates that I had - fortunately the third next to a large lake at Jedovnice at the edge of the Morvasky Kras (Moravian Karst) National Park was both cheap (£7 a night including 16amp electric and a reasonable internet connection) and well located to visit a number of local attractions.

Cycled around and down the Macocha Gorge and visited the Macocha Abyss - a huge swallow hole about 400m by 150m in plant at the surface and in excess of a kilometre deep. Absolutely impossible to photograph so I have pinched and aerial shoot via Google. Similarly, the gorges - up to 90m deep - where densely forested. Great for cycling in the shade on a hot day - but hard to photograph.
Macocha Abyss- Visitors on viewing gallery part way down
Macocha Abyss

Another day cycled via forestry trails behind the campsite to Krtiny to visit a huge Baroque Church with amazing ceiling frescos. Then on to the Jeskyne Vypustek (Vypustek Cave) where a long guided tour (all in Czech - I understood one word - radiation!) revealed a long history: paleolithic inhabitants; eighteenth century tourism; nineteenth century potash clay mining; pre-WW2 ammunition store: German WW2 underground factory for aircraft manufacture to Cold War Nuclear Bunker and Czech Army command centre!

Krtiny - Baroque Church
Krtiny - Baroque Church


Next move, on Monday, should be heading further east with the Czech Republic towards the Slovakia border.