Monday, 17 August 2015

Summer 2015 - 8th Post (France)


27th July 2015
Medreac (France)
Section 50 miles
Total 5466 miles

Following a some what cool and mainly wet week camping at Erquy - fortunately interspersed with occasional better weather with local walks and visits to the beach - I started a trek south towards the Lot and the Tarn in SW France. Headed south through Brittany passing west of Rennes to an Aire outside the Municipal Campsite at Medreac. Interesting walk around a some what dilapidated garden at the Chateaux Couellan and a side trip to some stone alignments, Alignements de Lampouy, and a large standing stone, Menhir del la Pierre Longue.

Alignements de Lampouy

Menhir del la Pierre Longue
 
'Just ahead, turn right' - Don't always rely on your SatNav!


Chateaux Couellan

28th July 2015
Messac (France)
Section 51 miles
Total 5517 miles

Another very wet grey day through Britttany to end up at an Aire next to a marina and la Vilaine. Found a supermarket with a washing machines and drier on the way so managed to catch up with the laundry. Also a jet wash - so the van got its first reasonable clean (apart from Graham's good work with the Bug-Off) the first time since Edinburgh in April.  Managed a walk in late afternoon to take a look at a large mill on the river.

 

29th July 2015
Mauleon (France)
Section 115 miles
Total 5632 miles

Brooooommmm..Vrooomm..Broooommm..Vroooooommmm.....A TGV went flying past full pelt on the railway line about 30m from the van at 5am! No chance of getting back to sleep after that rude awakening! The day looked a bit more cheerful and I had an early start on the route south. Passed out of Brittany into the drier and more arable Vendee with hectares of wheat fields. Stopped of at an Aire adjacent to the municipal Swimming Pool in Mauleon. Biked around the hilltop town and surroundings with an interesting castle and abbey

 
Mauelon - Abbey Gate

30th July 2015
Boisme (France)
Section 12 miles
Total 5644 miles

Onwards and southwards into Poitou with its endless fields of wheat and sunflowers in shallow valleys and open plateaux. Stopped off at Bessuire to wander round a huge and dominating medieval castle that belonged to the Duc de Beaumont. Quite typically there was a large 18th century house within the main  part of the castle. The Beaumont family living here for about 800years - finally moved out in the 1960's. Even had a room with a plaque noting that General de Gaulle spent the night!  Ended up at a pleasant Aire in a village park next to a large lake at Boisme. Fairly hot; but, managed a 10km circular walk around the village in the afternoon.

 
Bessuire - Chateau de Besssuire

Boisme - Park and Lake at the Aire
31st July 2015
Celles-sur-Belle (France)
Section 54 miles
Total 5698 miles

Another hot day - middle thirties. Arrived in Celles-sur-Belle at lunch time, parking in an Aire, at the bottom of the village, adjacent to the impressive Abbaye Royal with its ornamental gardens. Interesting circular walk through forestry and fields in the afternoon.

 
Celles-sur-Bel - Chapelle Royale

1st August 2015
Burie (France)
Section 84 miles
Total 5782 miles

South into the Saintonage. Passed through a small village called Aulnay and stopped off to look at its UNESCO listed and amazingly ornately decorated Eglise St Pierre de la Tour. Wanted to stay at a very shady Aire at Matha (with free electricity) but it was going to be closed overnight for a Brocante (Car Boot Sale) so I ended up a bit further south at a small grassed village aire in Burie. Passed an Abbey on the way into the village and spent about two hours walking along a blazoned route from the village looking for it - never found the bloody place.



 
Aulnay - Eglise St Pierre


Aulnay - Eglise St Pierre


Aulnay - Eglise St Pierre

Burie - Church
Just about 20km from Aulnay and absolutely basic




2nd August 2015
Cadilac (France)
Section 100 miles
Total 5882 miles

Crossed the Isle at its confluence with the Isle at Libourne to finally end up in the Garrone Valley. Yet another day of blazing sun. Staggered around the this walled bastide to take in the sights - the Chateau de Ducs d'Eperon, walls and partially arcaded market place - avoiding two large gaggles of Americans on an organised tour on the way. Apparently, the founder of the eponymous American car company came from this town and named the company after his hometown rather than using his own name.

Cadilac - Chateau
 

3rd August 2015
La Temple sur Lot (France)
Section 69 miles
Total 5951 miles

Finally, after stopping off at the medieval town of La Reole on the Garonne and the bastide at Montsegur for lunch, including a hot circuit on foot, I ended up at the  confluence of the Lot with the Garrone at Aiguillon and stayed overnight at an aire in a park adjacent to and interesting village with a restored Knights  Templar Commanderie.  This part of the world is covered by plum trees and famous for prunes! All the farms have large slatted wooden drying sheds that must have been used to dry the plums.  Bloody hot again with no wind. I tried cycling in the evening to get cool! But it didn't work. Odd architectural note: As you go up this part of the valley there is a lot of medieval brickwork combined with stone or half-timber construction.
La Reole - Market Hall founded by Richard I (Lionheart)
Sunflowers, Wheat, Woods and Hills
La Temple sur Lot - Knight's Templar Commanderie

La Reole - Townscape from the Lot

 
4th and 5th August 2015
Prayssac (France)
Section 50 miles
Total 6001 miles

Stopped of at Fumel to take a look at the hillside Chateau and have lunch. Hard to believe that there was formerly a huge steel works here in what is now a dominantly agricultural area. After lunch I wanted to visit the impressive Chateau de Bonaguil; only to find when I arrived that it was bursting with visitors to a medieval Festival. So sadly it just became a photo-opportunity. Ended up at a pleasant village, Prayssac, for a couple  of nights in a neatly laid out aire at the edge of a park. The temperatures have got silly. In the afternoon it was 39C at the van and 41C in the village square when I crawled in to get some provisions at 5pm. However, with an early start the next day I managed to get a blazoned walk done before midday  - the Circuit de Dolmens - three of four different types of stone burial chambers mainly lost in the trees.

 
Bonaguil - Chateau

Fumel - Chateau
Now the town hall.

Prayssac - Trying to keep cool in the shady town square


Preyssac - Circuit des Dolmens
Domed masonry interior roof
6th August 2015
Albas (France)
Section 4 miles
Total 6005 miles

East along the Lot to a Aire adjacent to a barrage and small hydro-electric power station. Still in the mid thirties and struggled on a 20km walk along the Lot and deep wooded valleys. As often happens I lost the signage and had to do an extra five or so kilometres to get back to the van.

 
Abas - le Lot next to the Aire

Abas - Church, Chateau and le Lot




7th August 2015
Cahors (France)
Section 20 miles
Total 6025 miles

Further up the valley to the town of Cahors within a huge meander if the Lot. Braving the sun walked around in the afternoon. Interesting cathedral with the nave composed of two domes and no aisles. And, of course, the famous fortified bridge the Pont de Valentre. Followed footpaths up the steep valley side to eventually get back to the van via another long diversion.

 
Cahors - south side

Cahors - Interior of cathedral with the double domed nave

Cahors - Cathedral

Cahors - Cathedral Cloister

Cahors - West side of town and Pont de Valentre


8th August 2015
Cajarc (France)
Section 49 miles
Total 6071 miles

Complete change in the weather overnight to have rain and low grey clouds down Lot Valley through Bouzies and hillside town of St-Cirq-Lapopie in the afternoon. I should have taken a look at the latter; but, even with the earlier rain it was heaving with visitors so given a miss. Definitely an out of season job. It's the only place I have seen police controlling traffic and parking! Stopped at Cajarc another bastide, in the old station car park just above the River Lot.

 
Near Cajarc - another hillside village in the Lot Valley

9th/10th August 2015
Montsalvy (France)
Section 56 miles
Total 6127 miles

Had intended to stop at Figeac; only having arrived to find a huge cycling event and the place packed out so went on to Montsalvy. A fortified village with an abbey church. Leaving the limestone scenery Lot valley behind for a while and passing through schists and granites at the southern extreme of the Cantal. Greener and much more rounded hills. Stopped a couple of nights at the hilltop aire on the edge of the village with extensive views to the west. Interesting walk up to the local view point, le Puy des Arbes, the Cantal to the north and the Cevnnes and Grand Cause to the east. Unfortunately, dense heat haze making photos a waste of time.

 
Montsalvy - Walking back from le Puy des Arbes

Montsalvy - North Gate


11th August 2015
Villeneuve (France)
Section 19 miles
Total 6146 miles

Back down to the Lot at Entraygues-sur-Truyeres, the confluence of the Truyere and the Lot. I travelled up stream to close to the source through the impressive limestone Gorges des Lot last year. So turned right and headed down stream back towards Cajarc to pick up the section of the Lot that I missed out with the diversion to Figeac and Montsalvy. I hadn't realised that this part of the Lot is cut down into granites, gneiss and schists - as opposed to the limestone both up and down steam. Makes a darker, wetter and more densely wooded landscape to the steep valley sides. Overnight at a landscaped aire at Villeneuve with its chateau and church. Hot sun continues, biked up the valley for a few kilometres in the 'cooler' evening.

 
Villeneuve - From the Lot

Like above

Villeneuve - Slates, Church and Castle


12th August 2015
Boisse-Penchot (France)
Section  miles
Total 6161 miles

Down stream to Boisse-Penchot to a very hot 38C afternoon hiding in the shade in Boisse-Penchot at another neatly landscaped aire adjacent to the Lot. The aires around here seemed to be built more like campsites that casual overnight parking areas. Change in the weather overnight to become much cooler, about 18C with low grey clouds and occasional thunderstorms. Went off for a wet walk in the morning along a 10km blazoned trial which included part of the Way of St James the GR35 I think (can't seem to avoid these routes!).

 

13th August 2015
Peyrusse-le-Roc (France)
Section 37 miles
Total 6198 miles

Driving down stream for a few kilometres, before heading south, I finished my route along the length of the Lot. Recommended to others especially upstream of Villeneuve-sur-Lot. The rain cleared up a bit in the afternoon and it was strange to end up at this hill top aire, with its partially ruined village and castle, that I had stayed at in June last year. I didn't realise until I arrived that I had been here before. Not sure if it was due to too many aires or just plain dementia?

Peyrusse-le-Roc - Chateau Inferior

Peyrusse-le-Roc - Town  Square, Boules and Church
 

14th August 2015
Monteils (France)
Section 25 miles
Total 6223 miles

Awoke to another wet, grey and cloudy day - reminiscent of Edinburgh except about ten degrees warmer! Headed towards Monteils, neat village with the usual few shops, church and chateau...even ancient silver mines in the vicinity! Aprt from a quick walk to the Tabac between showers I was dead lazy, stayed inside and carried on with re-reading the Rebus series of novels by Ian Rankin - up to Resurrection Men at the moment - about the thirteenth book in the series.

 

15th August 2015
Sauveterre-de-Rouegue (France)
Section 35 miles
Total 6258 miles

Weather improving as I went up and down steep wooded valleys and hidden streams to the bastide at Sauveterre-de-Rouegue. Stopped at a free municipal campsite, they just ask you to pay 2 euro a day for electric hook-up at the Tourist Office. But based on honesty - you don't get a receipt and no one checks up. Like European campsites in general - where you pay when you leave regardless of whether you have been there for a night or a month. I only recall once having to pay upfront last year in he Dordogne. Met up with a couple from the UK. In fact, it was the first time I had parked-up on a site with another UK van since I was with G&V in Brittany, at least three weeks ago! Mostly just French vans with a sprinkling of Germans, Dutch and the odd Belgian. And considering that it is middle of August (peak season) I have never had a problem parking-up. This couple had  sold their houses and spent fourteen years full timing in a huge American RV, having retired at 45 and 50, spending the winter parked up in Portugal (what do most of us do wrong  working to around 60 or more?). They are 65 and now rent an apartment in Portugal and have a campervan for general transport and trips away. They were off to the UK for six weeks to meet up with family there. Great little spot so I ended up staying for a few nights.  Couple of meals out here and walks around the local countryside.

Sauveterre - Market Square with complete arcades surrounding it


Sauveterre - Menagerie of Ducks in the Town Moat
Never before seen so many different species in one place

Sauveterre - View from a Walking Circuit